howdy!
on to the analysis part of it all... i have become enlightened with rationale for much of the craziness i see, and wish to share with you, patient reader.
the dogs: my fellow Yorki, Grahammallen, has made me aware of social and legal policy in Bangalore that not only ensures the protection of street dogs but monitors their even distribution across the city, allowing for a harmonious coexistence between man and beast. that's pretty awesome. though they want to eat me after dark, they're just little pooches! what this speaks to, though is the spirituality within people here, and the legitimacy of it at the government level. i think this is commendable.
cockroach roomate: i fixed the drainage pipe behind my sink, aka his front door. i came home today and looked for him, with a smile, but he did not appear. to my pals at home, and the Yorki's who remmeber that thing that i love: bugs... yes, i still love bugs, and yes, i still won't kill them. even in India. maybe strange and absurd to a few, but i feel bad that i've restricted his entry into my home. these things are resilient, so i'm sure he'll be back. :)
traffic: i don't know about this one yet. sorry, but this, i just don't get. i love every terrifying moment though. i think i've mastered crossing the street too. i even yelled at a tuktuk driver when he stopped honking.
garbage, pipeage and drainage: the NGO i intern at, Janaagraha Centre for Citizenship and Democracy, is concerned with the development of urban India, in a Bangalore setting. i am in an environment that discusses the nature of various city services and their impact on the citizens of Bangalore, and can offer some insight into the 'problems' here. these are detailed in an official training session that i will attend in 10 days, but from what i understand, infrastructure development and/or maintenance is dependent upon a highly decentralised government structure. for example, the water pipe repair services are not in communication or coordination with the road laying services, or the private/public (??) garbage pick-up services. this means that if a new road has been laid, and a water pipe bursts, the water people will rip up the new road, without clearing it with the road people. this means that the road people may or may not know that their new road has just been ripped up. the garbage man sometimes can't enter streets because of these issues, leaving garbage to be collected by the poor, or left on the side of the road. unsightly, yes, but more importantly, a clog in the city's drainage system (that's what the gaping holes are under the sidewalk! sewers!). a ripple effect is felt here when the monsoon rains arrive and flooding is rampant. what complicates matters is there is little clarity on the appropriate avenues through which citizens can address their concerns: who do they complain to, the road, water, or garbage people?
my point here is that, as i make Bangalore my new home, and for many of us in the 'developed' world who see the news reports of dirty and developing world 'backwardness', we often fail to think about the fundamentals behind these infrastructure differences. the intricacy is incredible.
i've also learned a little bit more about Indian religion and culture. a vast network of different values and practices within India, to learn even a small amount is an undertaking in itself. i can't wait.
some have called me brave; some have suggested i come home. please don't get me wrong... my dry and direct picture that i've painted does not convey the permanent smile on my face and the utter joy i feel every moment i am in this beautiful place (except for those pesky tuktuk drivers). four months is nowhere near enough time here.
this weekend we're going to rock out in Mumbai. 20 million people. 40 degrees. bollywood. oh boy.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
awed and awakened.
namaste!
it's been a while and on one hand, not much has changed; on the other, there are some crazy stories to tell! this post, therefore, is a long one and will be followed by another, more analytical approach to the craziness i see.
for those of you who don't know - winter is my FAVOURITE season. i love the snow. i love the cold. i love the no-heat. my internship in summer-time India is, therefore, an ironic chuckle to those back home, and to my new firends at work in Bangalore, an outright laugh. when i enter the office after my death-defying morning walk, or after my spicy lunchtime, i am sure to please as i towel dry my entire body (i'm not kidding - i carry with me a 3' by 3' thick cotton hanky. the heat is becoming more and more bearable though, as i spend my days with little lighting and many many fans - cherished for their magic wind all the more, as power cuts are frequent and lenghty. the heat works its magic in other ways. the stench of rotten, and fresh, garbage is made all the more invasive particularly as we embark on our lovely walk to lunch. our walks home, or rides in tuktuks/taxis, are navigated through blankets of thick sweaty smog, which is amplified at night by traffic's headlights.
India is known globally for its stray dogs. i remember reading my beloved Economist and its take on the issue. i was ignorant of their position in Indian society until i saw for myself the overrunning population of man's best friend, and the packs and territories they protect. my roommate's tale of fear put me in my place: she and two others were charged by a pack of teeth-barring street dogs necessitating the hurling of objects and intervention of locals to their defense. i haven't looked at my furry friends the same way since.
i have experienced by first bout with indian tummy woes. though a tiny, but painful, encounter here in Bangalore, Toronto would call this a bad bit of food poisoning. i'm sure i will develop an intimate relationship with my toilet over the next 3.5 months. yay!
the discrimination we face as foreigners is blatant and institutionalised. Indian and foreigner prices are clearly differentiated. we struggle daily for fair taxi prices and are ripped off frequently. the justifications for such are too countless to share. some occurences are simple refusals to give change, other drivers respond to our destination requests by driving away. the latter is an infuriating phenomenon that brings to mind my favourite Toronto taxi drivers that i find pleasant and respectful. i find it fascinating that in Bangalore, a city of 6 million (i swear a solid million are taxi drivers), a guaranteed ride ain't too bad. this is something my roomate and i are perplexed by: the sign on the meter says 'for hire'. why so RUDE? it seems there is a 'can't be bothered' element here... very very strange.
i've seen two accidents: one lady was knocked off her bike; a man was hit by something and ended up on the (2' wide) shoulder, clearly in pain. when she stood up the lady was greeted by fellow drivers from all directions and assisted - traffic stopped (yup. traffic stopped in India). the same happened for the man, but, our taxi driver did something that i think will stay with me forever. for those new to my blog, traffic in India is INSANE by Toronto standards. every car, cart, truck, taxi, bike and bus crams into EVERY POSSIBLE SPACE regardless of lane, direction or speed. so, when our taxi driver squished his little tuktuk into the spaces amongst the area where the injured man lay, it was not surprising. what was surprising, however, is that in doing so, he purposely drove into two sets of people who were trying to cross the jammed street. perhaps this is difficult to convey... he turned his wheel both left and right INTO these people - it was a malicious move. i discussed this with my roomate and she didn't catch it - a testament perhaps to the speed at which it happened. but i caught it. and i was sickened. i felt sick that amongst such chaos (to me), amongst a gathering of people concerned for the injured man, our funny and old driver, would or could hurt someone. i even called him out on it. i immediately demanded to know why he drove into those people. he didn't answer. i find it very interesting that amongst such filth, discrinination, unfriendliness, pollution, and invastion of personal space, safety and senses, that it is this one small and fast instance of inhumanity that i am most repulsed and left astonished by.
so... i am an International Development major. this means i study the hows, and more importantly, the whys of the economic, political and social dynamics and processes of the developing world. the nature of my internship lends serious weight to my own personal 'development' ideas and concerns. i have been blessed with a dynamic and highly intelligent professional setting, and most comforting, a roommate (Jessicaaaaa!!!!!!!) and fellow York intern (Grahammallen!!!!!!!) that have enlightened me with new and alternative and solid perspectives on 'development'. though we engage in stimulating discussions about Bangalore's hows and whys, i feel that i have not even skimmed the surface of what lies ahead.
with the help of my new Indian friends i have clarified many cultural confusions and gained incredible insight into the rationale for such vast differences in our practices and values. perhaps it is my nagging toilet, or my clogged coughs, but a more detailed offer of insight into the logic behind such will follow in my next post - perhaps tomorrow.
this is the best thing to ever happen to me! and i'm learing Hindi. booya!
it's been a while and on one hand, not much has changed; on the other, there are some crazy stories to tell! this post, therefore, is a long one and will be followed by another, more analytical approach to the craziness i see.
for those of you who don't know - winter is my FAVOURITE season. i love the snow. i love the cold. i love the no-heat. my internship in summer-time India is, therefore, an ironic chuckle to those back home, and to my new firends at work in Bangalore, an outright laugh. when i enter the office after my death-defying morning walk, or after my spicy lunchtime, i am sure to please as i towel dry my entire body (i'm not kidding - i carry with me a 3' by 3' thick cotton hanky. the heat is becoming more and more bearable though, as i spend my days with little lighting and many many fans - cherished for their magic wind all the more, as power cuts are frequent and lenghty. the heat works its magic in other ways. the stench of rotten, and fresh, garbage is made all the more invasive particularly as we embark on our lovely walk to lunch. our walks home, or rides in tuktuks/taxis, are navigated through blankets of thick sweaty smog, which is amplified at night by traffic's headlights.
India is known globally for its stray dogs. i remember reading my beloved Economist and its take on the issue. i was ignorant of their position in Indian society until i saw for myself the overrunning population of man's best friend, and the packs and territories they protect. my roommate's tale of fear put me in my place: she and two others were charged by a pack of teeth-barring street dogs necessitating the hurling of objects and intervention of locals to their defense. i haven't looked at my furry friends the same way since.
i have experienced by first bout with indian tummy woes. though a tiny, but painful, encounter here in Bangalore, Toronto would call this a bad bit of food poisoning. i'm sure i will develop an intimate relationship with my toilet over the next 3.5 months. yay!
the discrimination we face as foreigners is blatant and institutionalised. Indian and foreigner prices are clearly differentiated. we struggle daily for fair taxi prices and are ripped off frequently. the justifications for such are too countless to share. some occurences are simple refusals to give change, other drivers respond to our destination requests by driving away. the latter is an infuriating phenomenon that brings to mind my favourite Toronto taxi drivers that i find pleasant and respectful. i find it fascinating that in Bangalore, a city of 6 million (i swear a solid million are taxi drivers), a guaranteed ride ain't too bad. this is something my roomate and i are perplexed by: the sign on the meter says 'for hire'. why so RUDE? it seems there is a 'can't be bothered' element here... very very strange.
i've seen two accidents: one lady was knocked off her bike; a man was hit by something and ended up on the (2' wide) shoulder, clearly in pain. when she stood up the lady was greeted by fellow drivers from all directions and assisted - traffic stopped (yup. traffic stopped in India). the same happened for the man, but, our taxi driver did something that i think will stay with me forever. for those new to my blog, traffic in India is INSANE by Toronto standards. every car, cart, truck, taxi, bike and bus crams into EVERY POSSIBLE SPACE regardless of lane, direction or speed. so, when our taxi driver squished his little tuktuk into the spaces amongst the area where the injured man lay, it was not surprising. what was surprising, however, is that in doing so, he purposely drove into two sets of people who were trying to cross the jammed street. perhaps this is difficult to convey... he turned his wheel both left and right INTO these people - it was a malicious move. i discussed this with my roomate and she didn't catch it - a testament perhaps to the speed at which it happened. but i caught it. and i was sickened. i felt sick that amongst such chaos (to me), amongst a gathering of people concerned for the injured man, our funny and old driver, would or could hurt someone. i even called him out on it. i immediately demanded to know why he drove into those people. he didn't answer. i find it very interesting that amongst such filth, discrinination, unfriendliness, pollution, and invastion of personal space, safety and senses, that it is this one small and fast instance of inhumanity that i am most repulsed and left astonished by.
so... i am an International Development major. this means i study the hows, and more importantly, the whys of the economic, political and social dynamics and processes of the developing world. the nature of my internship lends serious weight to my own personal 'development' ideas and concerns. i have been blessed with a dynamic and highly intelligent professional setting, and most comforting, a roommate (Jessicaaaaa!!!!!!!) and fellow York intern (Grahammallen!!!!!!!) that have enlightened me with new and alternative and solid perspectives on 'development'. though we engage in stimulating discussions about Bangalore's hows and whys, i feel that i have not even skimmed the surface of what lies ahead.
with the help of my new Indian friends i have clarified many cultural confusions and gained incredible insight into the rationale for such vast differences in our practices and values. perhaps it is my nagging toilet, or my clogged coughs, but a more detailed offer of insight into the logic behind such will follow in my next post - perhaps tomorrow.
this is the best thing to ever happen to me! and i'm learing Hindi. booya!
Monday, May 17, 2010
my first three days...
hello all... i made it! a short description of my first three days in bangalore.
leaking fridge, no hot water, a hissing cockroach that lives in my bathroom. about 10 slimy red worms swimming in my toilet. caught in monsoon rain in which two people died. my way to work: try not to fall in the GAPING holes in the sidewalk, under which is about 3-4 feet of space in all directions. who knows what is under there. cross the roundabout with four lanes merging into one, from four different directions. if you don't die, walk across the street into the dump where the family lives. once you pass the naked babies eating garbage, walk under the 'urine bridge' where everyone poos and pees. then cross the street and if you don't die, meet the either four donkeys (yesterday) or the two cows (today) and their poo and pee, and continue to work.
15 blisters on my feet, a cold and very very few smiles from passers by. when someone does smile, though, it is electric and warm and beaming. i am welcome at work and everyone seems shy and curious, but the young women here have embraced me. though i feel like my life is in danger at all times (and i can only imagine what the upcoming monsoon season will bring) i feel lucky that i have two projects lined up for me, both of which are directly relevant to my studies and are exactly what i want to be a part of. the insanity outside is pleasantly balanced with a relaxed and casual working environment.
i have three weekend trips planned already, to Mysore, Mumbai and Goa. i've never felt so defeated and pumped at the same time! i can only imagine what my fellow bloggers are experiencing and can't wait to find out!
joc
leaking fridge, no hot water, a hissing cockroach that lives in my bathroom. about 10 slimy red worms swimming in my toilet. caught in monsoon rain in which two people died. my way to work: try not to fall in the GAPING holes in the sidewalk, under which is about 3-4 feet of space in all directions. who knows what is under there. cross the roundabout with four lanes merging into one, from four different directions. if you don't die, walk across the street into the dump where the family lives. once you pass the naked babies eating garbage, walk under the 'urine bridge' where everyone poos and pees. then cross the street and if you don't die, meet the either four donkeys (yesterday) or the two cows (today) and their poo and pee, and continue to work.
15 blisters on my feet, a cold and very very few smiles from passers by. when someone does smile, though, it is electric and warm and beaming. i am welcome at work and everyone seems shy and curious, but the young women here have embraced me. though i feel like my life is in danger at all times (and i can only imagine what the upcoming monsoon season will bring) i feel lucky that i have two projects lined up for me, both of which are directly relevant to my studies and are exactly what i want to be a part of. the insanity outside is pleasantly balanced with a relaxed and casual working environment.
i have three weekend trips planned already, to Mysore, Mumbai and Goa. i've never felt so defeated and pumped at the same time! i can only imagine what my fellow bloggers are experiencing and can't wait to find out!
joc
Friday, May 7, 2010
summer in india!
my visa was approved today! i think i'm in shock... i have to rebook my flight and hopefully i will fly this wednesday! :D
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
summer in toronto?
so, it looks like i may be in toronto for the summer after all. i am still waiting for the indian consulate to get back to me regarding my visa approval. i had to cancel my flight for last friday, and i had to pay a nasty fee to do so. i have been attending summer classes just in case, one of which, ironically, is India: Life and Culture! ha! i'm still very very very very sad, but happy that i get more time with the people that make me smile. :) i'm reading ghandi's essential writings, so when i get SUPER frustrated at bureaucracy, i take a deep breath and do some yoga. maybe i'm in india in my head!
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